Risotto is a popular rice dish which originates from the rice-growing areas of Northern Italy. It is now a sophisticated version of what once was a peasant dish. The rice is cooked in liquid with other ingredients whose flavour is absorbed by the grains - this makes it similar to paella or pilaf but the method is completely different.

The correct type of rice must be used to create a good risotto. There are three main varieties: Arborio, carnaroli and vialone.

They are all a medium-sized grain containing a high level of starch. As the risotto cooks and the rice is stirred, the starch is released and combines with the liquid to form a creamy consistency, although the interior of the rice grains retain a slight bite.

The result should not be too stodgy or too sloppy. The first six ingredients in this recipe can be used to create many different flavours of risotto.

When the rice is cooked add other ingredients such as roasted vegetables, fresh herbs and pine nuts or smoked salmon and chives. A good Italian cheese is essential to create an authentic risotto and where possible, use freshly grated Parmesan. It only takes 25 minutes from start to finish to make a risotto and there is very little washing up involved, so it is perfect for a mid-week meal.

Smoked Haddock and Leek Risotto Ingredients (Serves 4) 2 tbsp olive oil 1 small onion, peeled and finely diced 1 garlic clove, peeled and finely diced 250g Arborio rice 50ml white wine (optional) 1-1.2 litres chicken stock 300g smoked haddock, skinned and boned 20g butter 2 large leeks, trimmed, halved lengthways and finely sliced Salt and pepper 75g Parmesan cheese, finely grated Method 1 Place the olive oil in a heavy-based pan over a moderate heat. Add the onion and cook until it is beginning to soften, but not forming any colour. Stir occasionally.

2 Add the garlic and rice, cook for a few minutes until all the grains and coated with olive oil. Add the wine (if using) and allow it to be absorbed by the rice.

3 Begin to add the stock, a little at a time. Allow each amount to be absorbed before the next addition. Stir continually. You may not need all of the stock.

4 When the rice is almost cooked, place the haddock in a microwave-proof dish. Dot with butter, add the sliced leeks and season with salt and pepper. Cover with clingfilm and place in the microwave on medium power for 4 minutes (or until the fish is just cooked). Alternatively poach the fish gently in milk and saut the leeks in butter until tender.

5 Add the cooked fish and leeks to the risotto the fish will break up naturally as it is stirred in. Stir in some of the cheese and then season to taste with salt and pepper.

To serve Spoon a portion of risotto into each serving bowl and sprinkle over the remaining cheese.

Notes lDeep fried leeks make a good garnish for this dish. Trim 2 large leeks and then cut into thin strips(lengthways). Deep fry in hot oil until just crisp. Drain well on kitchen paper. The crunchy texture works well with the creamy risotto.

lA poached egg and a blob of wholegrain mustard also work well as an accompaniment. Add a drop of white wine vinegar to a pan of boiling water, and quickly stir the water round and round into a vortex before adding the eggs, it will help the egg whites to coagulate.

lIdeally, a risotto is best served immediately. However, risotto can be prepared in advance. Proceed up to stage 3 of the method, but when the rice is still only 70per cent cooked and still with plenty of bite, spread the mixture onto a tray and leave to cool. (This can be done up to 1 day in advance). When required, place the mixture in a pan and continue to cook, adding the remaining stock and then continue as per the recipe.

Coming next time Moroccan Lamb Tagine.